F/IC Installation Notes: Honda Civic 06-07

[gohybrid]

I think that makes sense... so the ECU tries to maintain voltage by adjusting the current through the sensor.  The F/IC skews the reading by injecting or draining current from that line causing the voltage to rise or fall relative to the reference voltage.  The result then is that the ecu compensates, and settles once it has pushed the voltage back to what it considers to be nominal.  That means then that the feedback system remains adaptive, so I can drive to the mountains or to the beach and the ECU can continue to adjust, relative to my O2 map.

That does help alot.  I have the UEGO controller you mentioned already, so I'm set there.   Thanks for your help - i know you guys are busy.

[gohybrid]

I have to say, overall, I think my F/IC installation has gone as well as can be expected so far.  I still need to buy a reducer tee and some longer vacuum line to reference manifold pressure, but as my engine is stock and no remapping is going on, i can leave it disconnected for the time being.

I'm one of those DIYers who needs to do everything themselves at least once before conceding that it would be easier to just buy the darn PNP harness and be done with it.

While I was under the hood hooking up wires one by one, however, I came across a discrepancy in the official AEM 06-07 wiring diagram and my honda factory service manual.

here is the AEM pinout


here is the Honda pinout


i noticed that on the AEM pinout, CAM1HALI + and CAM1HALO+ is intended to intercept CMPA, however is routed to C-31 which is listed in the Honda manual as CMPB.  The CMPA wire as you can see is located at C-41.

The opposite is true for CAM2 HALI+ and CAM2 HALO +.

I spoke with someone in phone tech support and they confirmed that what is referred to as CAM1 on the FIC should intercept CMPA on the car, and CAM2 should intercept CMPB.

So I went ahead and flip-flopped the wires...

End result: car starts up without hesitation on both bypass harness and on F/IC.  I took it for a few short test drives, taking it easy at first, and then doing some 3rd gear pulls at high load.  No problems, no CELs.  I should note that when I first plugged in the FIC, I got a CEL.  Switching to the bypass harness the CEL vanished.  I didn't actually change anything on the FIC map, and the next day when I plugged it in, all systems were go, no CELs.  Again, it is probably important to note that as the onboard MAP sensor is not plumbed in, i still have the F/IC operating purely in a bypass capacity - maps are all zeroes, including the O2 map which is presently in voltage mode.  I have not changed slew rate or injector response time from the default values.

So that's good news.  I guess in light of the pinout mixup, I'm curious how the CMPA and CMPB inputs would affect operation if they were reversed.  I hate to speculate, but it seems like if the FIC is tracking the relationship between CKP and CMPA/CMPB for various stages of cam advance for knock detection purposes, having the two inputs crossed wouldn't make a difference, as the relationship between the three signals is ultimately learned and unaltered - even if they are fundamentally reversed.

SB - i was wondering if you could shed any more light on how that portion of the FIC works and if you can offer additional confirmation as to whether my configuration is correct or if i need to monitor something/make changes.

[SupaNinja]

I have the MAF clamped and I don't know how to clamp the MAP.  I tried to just limit the voltage the FIC sends to the ECU but that causes a lean condition the first 250-500u sec after I step on the gas pedal.  I have the latest and greates v3.04 software, I have a box in the setup menu to clamp the MAF but nothing for the MAP.  I'm playing around with it, with the MAP out following the MAP in signal I go super rich as soon as I step on the gas.

[SB]

Clamping the MAP signal is pretty easy. With the key on and engine off, the MAP sensor will measure atmospheric pressure. A non-turbo car should not see much more than atmospheric pressure, so check the voltage at key-on engine-off and set your clamp to a few percent higher than that.

[SupaNinja]

Thanks SB, I'll give that a try.

[gohybrid]

I posted a wall of text over at 8thcivic about my experience with the F/IC so far.  I figure I'll put up a condensed version here for those of you still having trouble.

I can't stress enough how important it is to A. get your wiring spot-on, and B. have a quality OBDII scantool that you can watch your STFTs and LTFTs live.

My civic is still otherwise stock, but I have the F/IC wired in with my homemade harness - the AEM flying lead just isnt' long enough so to avoid 27 splices in addition to the splicing I already had to do, I just remade the harness longer with new wire.

My scantool is laptop-based so I had the scantool window up next to the F/IC window.

Using only the fuel map and the O2 map I was able to tune the ECU in closed loop.

my settings were as follows:

injector response time: 486 uS (on stock injectors, crank/startup time is perfect as far as I can tell)
ignition load input: MAP
slew rate: .125 deg/5ms (again, default setting, starts up immediately)
MAF load input: MAF
MAF mode: Percent
MAF max voltage clamp: 5V (stock motor, and the MAF map is zeroed out anyway... no problems here)
Analog A Load Input: MAP
Analog A mode: Percent (also zeroed out... just letting the stock ECU and sensors do their thing)
O2 Map mode: Voltage
O2 Load Input: MAP
Bank 1 Hi voltage: 4.95
Bank 1 Lo voltage: 0
Bank 2 Hi voltage: 4.95
Bank 2 Lo voltage: 0
Period: 200 mS
Start Delay: 0 sec
High Level Drive: unchecked
View as AFR: unchecked


Again, with the Scantool loaded next to the F/IC window, and the Fuel and O2 windows both configured for MAP vs. RPM, the gauge window open - i can see the green cell in both maps, and they are both in the same place.

First thing I did was set the O2 map current cell (and group of cells surrounding it) to 2.5V.  Immediately, the STFTs start to go negative.  To counter this, select the same cells in the Fuel map, and start pulling fuel.  You will pretty much be able to see this happening in real time, but just gradually reduce the fuel until the STFTs go back to zero.  If you are so inclined, you can maintain a positive or negative STFT for a certain period of time to try and zero out the LTFTs as well.

The end result will be that the ECUs fuel trims are at zero percent, and your active cells show a -13% reduction in fuel.  That means your ECU is now satisfied with the current tune, and will actually do everything it can to maintain this.  Now the ECU is learning FOR you, rather than AGAINST you.

SB did a similar experiment to this in another thread, but the purpose of his experiment was to cause the ECU to add fuel.  I wanted to bring that here, and just try to illustrate that that is the way you start, and then the way you finish is to make the fuel trim correction that the ECU is trying to make in the fuel table.  That way the ECU thinks everything is dandy just the way it was programmed.

Bottom line: my experience has been extremely good with both AEM and the F/IC so far.  As I get to logging the stock MAF and MAP voltages, and then to installing the turbo, I'll let you know how that goes.

One thing I know will be handy: my scantool allows me to log in realtime a graph of STFTs against RPMs.  I should be able to combine that log with the logs from the F/IC to get a graph of STFT against RPM vs. MAP.  So as I make my dyno pulls, I can see which rpm/load points my STFTs are coming off the zero mark and adjust those cells accordingly.

so... kudos to AEM, thanks to SB and.... off i go.

[denondj]

To SB

Hello!!!
I have civic type-r 08 FN2 K20Z4 with turbo garret gt30r. MAF sensor is situated before the turbine. Please tell me hou can I set up my car with AEM F/IC and stock ECU.

Best regards!

[SupaNinja]

you'll want to get a Helm manual for your car and verify the wiring is the same as the FG2/FA5 wire it in as per the diagram or use s boomslang harness.  the TSI base map should get you in the ballpark.

[denondj]

you'll want to get a Helm manual for your car and verify the wiring is the same as the FG2/FA5 wire it in as per the diagram or use s boomslang harness.  the TSI base map should get you in the ballpark.

I have civic type-r FN2 K20Z4, it is the same Civic Si 06-07 K20Z3.
I have some problems with MAF sensor. Please help my to set up. I have AEM F/IC Controller w/Boomslang 06-07 Civic si Harness.

[fg2_master]

Hi, I have a question, can you control the i-vtec point with the FIC?

[SupaNinja]

you'll want to get a Helm manual for your car and verify the wiring is the same as the FG2/FA5 wire it in as per the diagram or use s boomslang harness.  the TSI base map should get you in the ballpark.

I have civic type-r FN2 K20Z4, it is the same Civic Si 06-07 K20Z3.
I have some problems with MAF sensor. Please help my to set up. I have AEM F/IC Controller w/Boomslang 06-07 Civic si Harness.

Your going to want to clamp the MAF at 3.85v  and the MAP at 3.34v

FG2master- no it doesn't control vtec point, when the standalones are released that should be able to do that.

[erixxx69]

hi, I bought the FIC, for my JDM Civic 07' . k20
it's automatic, with paddle shifters, engine "i think" is the same with base RSX, and or the old civic SI EP3.
since vtec is only for intake, and has 9.5 compression ratio. engine is rated at 160hp stock.

i also have a turbo kit, composed of a T3/T4 turbo, 255lph walbro fuel pump, external wastegate pre-set at 8psi, not too big intercooler, manual boost controller.

all these r not installed to the car yet, i want to know what you guys think about my project, since i want to run turbo
with keeping my paddle shifting automatic tranny (which im planning to have the components cryo treated).

since my pistons and injectors will be stock, im planning to run around 6-8psi for now.

so do you guys think i'm in the right path? i sure would need advices now. thanks!   

[fantola]

hi, I bought the FIC, for my JDM Civic 07' . k20
it's automatic, with paddle shifters, engine "i think" is the same with base RSX, and or the old civic SI EP3.
since vtec is only for intake, and has 9.5 compression ratio. engine is rated at 160hp stock.

i also have a turbo kit, composed of a T3/T4 turbo, 255lph walbro fuel pump, external wastegate pre-set at 8psi, not too big intercooler, manual boost controller.

all these r not installed to the car yet, i want to know what you guys think about my project, since i want to run turbo
with keeping my paddle shifting automatic tranny (which im planning to have the components cryo treated).

since my pistons and injectors will be stock, im planning to run around 6-8psi for now.

so do you guys think i'm in the right path? i sure would need advices now. thanks!  

6-8psi will be fine on this motor. No need to have cryo treated.
However, you should change your stock injectors first other than the fuel pump.

[erixxx69]

so the FIC, is fine with automatic right? it will just control the fuel and ignition map, is it possible to advance the ignition on this?
anyway, which wiring diagram should i follow? since its automatic? will i still follow the 06-07 wiring diagram on this?..

and was thinking of adding an extra injector for now, instead of swapping out all the injectors.   

im a newb, i need advices.   

[fantola]

so the FIC, is fine with automatic right? it will just control the fuel and ignition map, is it possible to advance the ignition on this?
anyway, which wiring diagram should i follow? since its automatic? will i still follow the 06-07 wiring diagram on this?..

and was thinking of adding an extra injector for now, instead of swapping out all the injectors.   

im a newb, i need advices.   

FIC is compatible with AT. As for timing advance, FIC does not have this function. However, if you are very interested in this, you can try to modify knock signal conservertively to see what happens.

You should follow the wiring diagram provided by AEM.

And, you'd better to change primary injectors rather than adding secondary injectors.