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Author Topic: I think my EMS just went out  (Read 352 times)
shaundrake
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« on: March 24, 2009, 08:47:04 AM »

I have a 92 Honda Civic with a low mile JDM OBD2 D series motor. Internally stock with bolt ons. Daily driven, never raced. 30-1000, AEM Twin Fire, CBR coils waste spark setup.

This has been my daily driver for about a year getting me to work and back every day. This EMS has always had issues. Before I installed it on this vehicle, I tested it on my previous vehicle and found out both coil drivers were burned out (destroyed my coil). I sent it in to AEM and had it fixed. The voltage on all the sensors has been very noisy even on the previous car/engine that the EMS came out of. The CLT fluctuates constantly indicating 195-215 F and often spikes even higher, causing the rad fan to come on and off randomly. Coasting to a stop, the TPS spikes above 11% every time causing the engine to buck from DFCO and Idle control. Despite these annoyances the car has ran good and reliably even getting me back and forth 5000 total miles across the south west.

Then a few weeks ago an intermittent problem developed where I would start the car to come home from work and I'd immediately notice something wrong. Almost like a misfire but it's not a misfire because I would pull each coil pack and the engine would bog. Despite this the car was still drive-able and the next morning the problem would disappear.

Fast forward to yesterday. In the morning I dropped my son off at school, my wife off at work, and went home. About a 20 mile round trip. Car ran great as usual. I didn't touch the car, the EMS, nothing. Then at 5 I go to pick up my wife and it's running badly. The tach is very low, staying mostly below 1000 when I know it to be 3000 RPM. At idle the tach reads 0. (Tach signal is coming from the white wire on the Twin Fire) The car is running as if the EMS believes the tach. I shut off the engine and restarted it, now the tach is reading accurately but it's running the same. I shut off the engine and restart. Tach is back to it's low reading. Runs like crap. This morning I started it and it's the same.

Unfortunately I lost my previous two jobs consecutively due to the economy. Also, I'm in the process of moving and can't afford any down time. I may try converting the ignition back to stock and running the engine on a stock, non VTEC ECU. I may be forced to sell the car. If anyone has any suggestions about how I can confirm the EMS or Twin Fire is bad, or something else on the car that I can check before I chuck the EMS at a wall, I'd love to read your reply.
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shaundrake
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« Reply #1 on: March 25, 2009, 08:51:22 AM »

Now this morning the car is running great. The ONLY thing I did was plug in my laptop and run a log at idle. I don't know whether to be relieved or even more frustrated.

Anyone want to buy a Civic dirt cheap? I've learned my lesson and from now on I will be sticking to strickly OEM components.
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Jared
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« Reply #2 on: March 25, 2009, 03:01:17 PM »

I have seen issues with the 1000 box having erratic sensor voltages and other similar issues. The first thing I would do is try a known good 1040 or whatever else plugs in. BTW, what are you using for cam/crank input?
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Alpha
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« Reply #3 on: March 25, 2009, 04:25:58 PM »

Known issue with some of the 1000 boxes. Sell it. Buy a 30-1040. I know you lost your jobs but this is your only choice
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shaundrake
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« Reply #4 on: March 26, 2009, 08:17:01 AM »

Thanks for the responses.

I'm using a gutted OEM distributor for the cam/crank sensors.

Do you think a used 1040 is too risky?

Can I use an AEM Gauge Type UEGO with a 1040U? Or will I have to have 2 O2 bungs?
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