High vibration when Car is stopping at idling

[snailpower]

After installed AEM FIC, here my problem:
my car have super high vibration when car come to stop at traiffic light with D gear, to stop vibration at traffic jam,
i need to always engage to (N)etual gear. When from N gear back to D gear, the car won't move for 3 to 4 sec.
if i step more fuel, the car will start to move after  7 sec, which is worst.
Before install FIC, to most delay is 1 sec.
My car is L15A Honda fit auto tranmission.


This O2 map, i try to play around so that to minimize vibration. But not very successful.
Because if I tune vibration minimize, the next day HIGH vibration will come out, is endless tuning for me.

Below this pic, show what i had done daily, blue color is  air con but in N gear load, ( no virbation )
Green is NO air con in D shift and step on brake( little virbation)
Red is Air Con on D shift and step on brake ( High virbation area) Must always tune here when start my trip, or else high vibration.
Yellow : car start to move ( if i didn't tune this, the car will have delay moving abt 3 to 4 sec) so i have tune this everytime for better response.




This pic show my MAF, I believe this one also wrong, I have watch the AEM video, this result get from datalog, How to have datalogger? My workshop tuner must do this right?

This pic show my Fuel MAF



This pic show Fuel MAP, I  don;t how to tune this, so i leave it.

[fantola]

Your fuel map is all wrong. Why did you enter -100 in the cells?
Your MAF clamp is also wrong. 2.88 is too low for after 2000rpm.
I assume your FIT is GD generation equipped with CVT tranny.
Then, you can use percent mode in O2 map. However,
have you tested the drivibility of O2 map? It seems that you get into a mess.

Since you didn't mention you have mods on FIT, I assume it is stock one.
You should make the vehicle run exactly like stock with FIC installed without any issue before any tuning on maps.
Then, test O2 map drivibility until it works perfectly. I suggest you to troubleshooting the wiring issue first.

[snailpower]

Your fuel map is all wrong. Why did you enter -100 in the cells?
Your MAF clamp is also wrong. 2.88 is too low for after 2000rpm.
I assume your FIT is GD generation equipped with CVT tranny.
Then, you can use percent mode in O2 map. However,
have you tested the drivibility of O2 map? It seems that you get into a mess.

I dont know -100 is wrong, ALL the tune is done by authorise AEM tuner shop. I only tune O2 which I had highlighted in Color. That all. So what is -100 mean? The tuner said -100 is set as stock setting, so  that mean he didn't tune my iding to 2000 RPM,  That why I was also confuse. What is -100 mean.

2) what u mean wiring issue? They need to redo the wire?

3) My car got turbo boost after 2100 RPM, but forget abt the boost first, i try to find out 2000 RPM and below.
So that i can daily drive to my work. So if not -100, at least for 1500CC , what is the estimate number i shown put? My next appountment to tuner is 1 wek later, now i suffer from Super high vibration.

[snailpower]

by the way after added AEM, my Gear shift lock at the Park after installed AEM.

Does it mean the voltage signal send wrong? because i went to another workshop to repair,
they can't find any fault on mehanic switch and fuse, they used OBD to scan and found that the
earth didn't signal back. They ask me did I do anything to ECU, I told them i add piggyback, then they
just used 1 wire to bypass and told me that wire or voltage signal wrong.

What is voltage signal wrong, Is it MAF voltage wrong or Analog (A) (B) is wrong???

my Analog A and B , is it correct? My MAF voltage is shown above.

[snailpower]

I had try put my FUEL MAP for 0 instead -100

I heard knocking sound. Check engine light suddenly light up
Bad smell and engine cut off auomatic. what wrong?

[snailpower]

Now my idling speed no problem. No virbration.

Now if i drive more then 2500 RPM, got huge vibration.
WHY same map but give different problem?

is it o2 , exhaust or other sensor got problem?

or ECU learn back?

or signal to voltage got problem?

or yr advise?

[Mikeymx5]

When you say 1500cc are you talking about the motor size or are you talking about injector size?

Please if you want help you need to tell us what mods you have, and what is wired to what? The analog A/B channels are normally custom and we have no idea what you got going on.

I can say that your maps look very off. You should never have to add fuel to one map and remove fuel in another, it is just bad practice.

Also setting your fuels map to -100% is a fuel cut.  Here is how it works your stock ecu will give a short pulse about 500us to start the injectors, and then will give a say 10ms pulse to have the injector spray fuel.  If you are setting you map to -100% they only pulse that the injectors are seeing is the 500us IRT pulse, because you have cut all fuel.  So if you are still getting fuel you probably have low impedance injectors installed that are about 200us IRT and are still able to give fuel because you IRT setting is wrong.

I cant tell whats going on in your maps, perhaps you should attach a screen shot of your Setup screen, and fire your tuner!

[fantola]

First, I'm sure FIC would work on your vehicle.
Even your FIT is turbocharged, it will work properly with FIC installed. Though you might have MAF voltage offset issue, you can still use FIC to compensate MAF signal. If your tuner cannot get the basic stuff done, like Mikeymx5 says, fire your tuner!

[Mikeymx5]

Im afraid that its probably not the tuners fault other than he is not telling this guy he has Messed up his ride.

The more that I have read his post the more im understanding what is going on or wrong!

A factory FIT has about some where around 170cc high impedance injectors, SnailPower has installed 1500cc low impedance injectors. If the resistors are in place (probably not) he would have a -88 to -90% fuel cut required on the fuel map.... not taking into account the mass difference in IRT timing that would also increase the required fuel cut.

It appears that his tuner is trying every means possible to correct this issue, including reducing the MAF voltage.

If you are trying to boost out the max potential of the stock turbo about 9psi, on a Honda FIT you would never need larger than a 360cc injector for the factory setup, not to mention a fuel pump upgrade. Im only guessing because Snail man will not give any vital information about his Setup.


Snailpower, Im not trying to be mean but if you dont know what you are doing, leave it alone! And if your tuner isn't telling you that you have messed up, fire him!

Last do you self a favor and return the car to stock and take a loss before you loose your engine.

[snailpower]

i had remove the wire and now all ok.
1500CC = engine,

Fuel injector is stock.
Another 1 extra should be 360CC.

now the tuner going to study how come my ECU learn back like that. this is what i know from him.
He will call me back when he got the idea.

[Mikeymx5]

SnailPower where are you from, I have the hardest time reading you fragmented english?

So Im glad to hear that you didnt do something crazy...

So what Im reading now is that you have a 5th injector installed right? This would make sence because you would cut fuel at 100% to make sure its not firing. However so If your IRT (Injector response time) is incorrect you may still be getting a little bit of fuel out of the injector.

You will have to also check to see if the single 5th injector is firing for all cylinders.. I know nothing about this type of setup, so you will have to ask an admin.

Snailpower in the future if you want people to help you, you need to give all the information about every mod that you have done to the car, or else we are shooting blind. Go hang out on Miataturbo.net for a week and they will rip you a new one, but you will learn how to post on a forum very quick!

[snailpower]

Snailpower in the future if you want people to help you, you need to give all the information about every mod that you have done to the car, or else we are shooting blind. Go hang out on Miataturbo.net for a week and they will rip you a new one, but you will learn how to post on a forum very quick!

by the way, how to add more fuel ?
how to add  more o2 in this setup?
example is it: from -100 to -80 is add fuel.

[Mikeymx5]

For fuel you will are correct going from -100% to -80% will increase fuel.

If the factory ECU is giving a pulse (1 being on and 0 being off)
1111111111111
and you have a -100% it will look like
0000000000000
but at -80%
1100000000000
if you gave it a 0% you would have
1111111111111
and positive 100%
1111111111111 1111111111111

This O2 is a different for different cars, you will need to do some research on how your works. But for a miata the 02 gives a signal from .1volts to .9 volts.  If the 02 gives at or below .45volts the factory ecu see the car is lean and adds fuel, if the Factory ECU sees .55volts or above it thinks the car ls rich so it removes fuel.

Typically unless for certain track conditions, the O2 signals should not be modified, unless the car is in positive manifold pressure (boost).

I would get on the internet and first understand how a car runs and what are good and bad ways of tuning. Playing around and not know what you are doing can cause permanent damage to your motor.

Get on the internet and read up, thats how I got started.

[snailpower]

For fuel you will are correct going from -100% to -80% will increase fuel.

If the factory ECU is giving a pulse (1 being on and 0 being off)
1111111111111
and you have a -100% it will look like
0000000000000
but at -80%
1100000000000
if you gave it a 0% you would have
1111111111111
and positive 100%
1111111111111 1111111111111

This O2 is a different for different cars, you will need to do some research on how your works. But for a miata the 02 gives a signal from .1volts to .9 volts.  If the 02 gives at or below .45volts the factory ecu see the car is lean and adds fuel, if the Factory ECU sees .55volts or above it thinks the car ls rich so it removes fuel.

Typically unless for certain track conditions, the O2 signals should not be modified, unless the car is in positive manifold pressure (boost).

I would get on the internet and first understand how a car runs and what are good and bad ways of tuning. Playing around and not know what you are doing can cause permanent damage to your motor.

Get on the internet and read up, thats how I got started.

OK. so if fuel is -100 mean stock, -80 mean more fuel, if 0 mean ?
if +20 alot fuel?

Ok, i don't touch O2 map, yes my boost start 2000 RPM, can set 1500 RPM start boost?

[trbo2dr]

no, 0 would be stock.  -100 would be no fuel flow at all.  -80 would be 20% of your original flow rate.  if you are using stock injectors you would want to add fuel under load.  so your map should be all positive values above 100kpa.  just make sure that you don't make the injectors go to 100% duty cycle.