Throttle % and accel fuel problem

[mld54]

I'm trying to determine if I have a problem or if this is normal. I'm still fighting a accel fuel problem and my question is this. How much throttle % fluctuation or noise in the signal is normal ? At idle when I log throttle % then expand the graph enough so I can see the peaks and valleys, then move the cursor to take readings, there will be as much as 1 % fluctuation with out any electrical load. If I turn on the headlamps or blower motor there will be over 1.5 % sometimes more.

The problem I'm  chasing is that I can get the accel fuel working good during the day. Later at night when I turn on the headlamps ( or any electrical load ), I get accel fuel activation at light throttle cruise. If the accel fuel is adjusted to work on light tip in ( like moving forward in traffic ) then I have the false activation with electrical load. I'm running a 70 MM throttle body so I barely have to crack the throttle to pull forward in traffic. if I adjust it down to where I don't have much of a problem with false accel, I have a bad hesitation stumble on light tip in. I have compared three tp sensors and all are the same. I have checked all connections and grounds. I even removed the black and white 10 pin connectors at the rear of the intake. 

Can some one log their throttle % and see how much fluctuation they have so I know if this is normal or not ? any help would be appreciated.

[beerfarm]

I'm trying to determine if I have a problem or if this is normal. I'm still fighting a accel fuel problem and my question is this. How much throttle % fluctuation or noise in the signal is normal ? At idle when I log throttle % then expand the graph enough so I can see the peaks and valleys, then move the cursor to take readings, there will be as much as 1 % fluctuation with out any electrical load. If I turn on the headlamps or blower motor there will be over 1.5 % sometimes more.

The problem I'm  chasing is that I can get the accel fuel working good during the day. Later at night when I turn on the headlamps ( or any electrical load ), I get accel fuel activation at light throttle cruise. If the accel fuel is adjusted to work on light tip in ( like moving forward in traffic ) then I have the false activation with electrical load. I'm running a 70 MM throttle body so I barely have to crack the throttle to pull forward in traffic. if I adjust it down to where I don't have much of a problem with false accel, I have a bad hesitation stumble on light tip in. I have compared three tp sensors and all are the same. I have checked all connections and grounds. I even removed the black and white 10 pin connectors at the rear of the intake. 

Can some one log their throttle % and see how much fluctuation they have so I know if this is normal or not ? any help would be appreciated.

Not sure if you got your problem resolved yet or not, but it sounds to me that your accel tables just need a bit of work. The TP sensor on my truck is very noisy. I had accel problems similar to what you describe. (I am still trying to work a couple of bugs out of yet.  )
First i raised the Accel TP Sensitivity until I stopped seeing a false trigger while steady cruise. This caused a slight lean stumble on tip in. To counter this, I started the dTPS Accel Table value @ 10%. Playing with these two values have had the biggest impact on the accel pump fueling for me with tip-in and small movements off idle as well as false trigger. I have a couple more bugs to work on yet, but my accel pump has never worked better. My truck barks at people again! 

[mld54]

I'm trying to determine if I have a problem or if this is normal. I'm still fighting a accel fuel problem and my question is this. How much throttle % fluctuation or noise in the signal is normal ? At idle when I log throttle % then expand the graph enough so I can see the peaks and valleys, then move the cursor to take readings, there will be as much as 1 % fluctuation with out any electrical load. If I turn on the headlamps or blower motor there will be over 1.5 % sometimes more.

The problem I'm  chasing is that I can get the accel fuel working good during the day. Later at night when I turn on the headlamps ( or any electrical load ), I get accel fuel activation at light throttle cruise. If the accel fuel is adjusted to work on light tip in ( like moving forward in traffic ) then I have the false activation with electrical load. I'm running a 70 MM throttle body so I barely have to crack the throttle to pull forward in traffic. if I adjust it down to where I don't have much of a problem with false accel, I have a bad hesitation stumble on light tip in. I have compared three tp sensors and all are the same. I have checked all connections and grounds. I even removed the black and white 10 pin connectors at the rear of the intake. 

Can some one log their throttle % and see how much fluctuation they have so I know if this is normal or not ? any help would be appreciated.

Not sure if you got your problem resolved yet or not, but it sounds to me that your accel tables just need a bit of work. The TP sensor on my truck is very noisy. I had accel problems similar to what you describe. (I am still trying to work a couple of bugs out of yet.  )
First i raised the Accel TP Sensitivity until I stopped seeing a false trigger while steady cruise. This caused a slight lean stumble on tip in. To counter this, I started the dTPS Accel Table value @ 10%. Playing with these two values have had the biggest impact on the accel pump fueling for me with tip-in and small movements off idle as well as false trigger. I have a couple more bugs to work on yet, but my accel pump has never worked better. My truck barks at people again! 

I went back to the tune I was running before I had the problem. The car has a tip in hesitation on very light accel, when easing forward in traffic, like waiting in line and creeping forward. I'm still working on it. I still can't figure out what the electrical load had to do with the problem.

[beerfarm]

I went back to the tune I was running before I had the problem. The car has a tip in hesitation on very light accel, when easing forward in traffic, like waiting in line and creeping forward. I'm still working on it. I still can't figure out what the electrical load had to do with the problem.

Im gunna take mine for a cruise today, I can log the throttle% and see what mine does when I load the system down to compare. I've seen on a number of posts around here that say "never allow throttle to read 0%". I adjusted the min volts of the TP sensor so when my foot is off the pedal, It now reads .08%. Before, it would read 0% and I was fighting idle hunting and accel pump nightmares. Maybe something to look into? Just trying to throw ideas at ya! Accel pump tuning seems to be a dark art around here 
Here's what I got that is working really good for me> The dTPS table is what fixed my traffic problems you are having.

[mld54]

I agree on the 0% throttle problems, I ran in to that causing all kinds of idle problems. I actually run mine a little higher, close to 2 %. Something else thats weird is that I have to set tps min volts with the engine running. If I set it with key on engine off to say 2 % then start the engine it will be lower say .5 %. The tps percent will always be lower with the engine running than with the engine not running.

I see very well what you have your Accel DTPS Trigger set to in Options, is it 8 ?

How do you like your Baumann trans controller, I'm running a Lentech manual vb. I have been tossing around the idea of switching over to a Baumannator. I like the idea of being able to use the cruise buttons like a paddle shifter when it's in manual mode.  Do you run a lockup converter ?

[beerfarm]

I agree on the 0% throttle problems, I ran in to that causing all kinds of idle problems. I actually run mine a little higher, close to 2 %. Something else thats weird is that I have to set tps min volts with the engine running. If I set it with key on engine off to say 2 % then start the engine it will be lower say .5 %. The tps percent will always be lower with the engine running than with the engine not running.

I see very well what you have your Accel DTPS Trigger set to in Options, is it 8 ?

How do you like your Baumann trans controller, I'm running a Lentech manual vb. I have been tossing around the idea of switching over to a Baumannator. I like the idea of being able to use the cruise buttons like a paddle shifter when it's in manual mode.  Do you run a lockup converter ?

dTPS trigger is 8. I had it at 10, but 8 seems to work a bit better for me.
The Baumann is one of the best things I did with the truck as far as tranny control goes. I keep it in "drive" position all the time, even at the track, the controller does all the work for me. I got it shifting to the next gear exactly when the shift light trips on. Simple mapping software, lots of options for lockup control (Yup, I run a lockup  ) The cruise-o-matic  is a bitchin feature! I can toggle to overdrive at any speed and map load areas never possible before (like 10psi @ 1500 rpms  ) It will hold the gear until YOU change it. Kinda handy for perfecting a fuel and timing map without a dyno! I run their shift kits as well, the best there is around for an E4OD. You wont be dissapointed

[beerfarm]

Finally got some logging done, my Throttle% only fluctuates a maximum of .4% unloaded or extremely loaded at night with the stereo pounding. 
 Have you gotten any more figured out ??

Edit - Just want to make sure people take note of this...
 "I have to set tps min volts with the engine running. If I set it with key on engine off to say 2 % then start the engine it will be lower say .5 %. The tps percent will always be lower with the engine running than with the engine not running."
 I just payed close attention to this with the truck tonight. My settings were allowing the Throttle% to touch zero every now and then. Another little bugger squashed!

[Blacksaleen95]

Take a log either at idle or koeo and post it. I've found that with the foxbody wiring there's an orange ground that is near the firewall/fuel rails that is grounded to chassis ground that wrecks havoc on the ground signals. Take a look on your harness for that, and while watching the parameters on the laptop see if it helps. I believe this wire is the factory 02 ground but don't quote me... Post a log, and see if you can find that wire I'm talking about. On almost every foxbody I've tuned I've seen that ground cause the excessive noise in the signals at idle... it also makes the iac hot/go nuts in some cases.

Jim

[elky406]

Take a log either at idle or koeo and post it. I've found that with the foxbody wiring there's an orange ground that is near the firewall/fuel rails that is grounded to chassis ground that wrecks havoc on the ground signals. Take a look on your harness for that, and while watching the parameters on the laptop see if it helps. I believe this wire is the factory 02 ground but don't quote me... Post a log, and see if you can find that wire I'm talking about. On almost every foxbody I've tuned I've seen that ground cause the excessive noise in the signals at idle... it also makes the iac hot/go nuts in some cases.

Jim

so if thats the case where do you move that ground to?And yes there is one wire in the factory harness that grounds to the back of the intake manifold.Do you move it or what?I was thinking about splicing into all the main ecu grounds at the ecu harness and going direct to a chassis lug\ground i welded to the body at the ecu area,solder and heat shrinked of course.Would that help with some of the wierd issues concerning grounds and noise?

[Blacksaleen95]

As long as you're not using the stock narrowband 02's, just disconnect it and tape it back or cut the end off.  First verify that it fixes the issue, but 9/10 it's what I've found to be the culprit.

Take a look at the grounds are important thread for more info on grounds.

also post up the log

[elky406]

As long as you're not using the stock narrowband 02's, just disconnect it and tape it back or cut the end off.  First verify that it fixes the issue, but 9/10 it's what I've found to be the culprit.

Take a look at the grounds are important thread for more info on grounds.

also post up the log

Question about grounds,im going to do a floating ground like you advise,where did you mount the ground strip?I want to do this once.I would pm you but i dont see a pm option.

[Blacksaleen95]

take a picture of your current ground setup now. have you taken off the orange ground to the intake yet and checked the signal noise yet?

[elky406]

take a picture of your current ground setup now. have you taken off the orange ground to the intake yet and checked the signal noise yet?

my grounds r factory but trunk mounted battery.also were do u log noise?

[beerfarm]

I log (watch) sensor voltage. Wiggle grounds, add grounds, wiggle connectors. I have chased down a broken ground wire in a loom this way

[elky406]

I log (watch) sensor voltage. Wiggle grounds, add grounds, wiggle connectors. I have chased down a broken ground wire in a loom this way

Ok did the re ground and cut the orange wire out of the loom on intake,wow what a difference.


My setup

2/0 from battery to quad shock mount,2/0 from quad mount to floating ground terminal.Then i ground the alt,all the underhood sensors and grounds,then grounded the 40 and 60 pin to the floating ground.I placed the floater under the front fender by the tire so it cant be seen,its a insulated 3/8 stud...Checked voltage drops and there all gone.While i was doing this i think i found the problem but did this ground deal anyway.The previous owner mounted battery in the trunk and didnt use a ring eyelet on the main cable,just wrapped it around the bolt and threaded it on in.Anyway thanks guys so much for all the input...Its nice to come to a forum and be able to ask questions and not be made to feel like a idiot.Thanks so much.Will keep everyone posted on the dyno numbers,i plan on putting it back on the dyno tonite and making some pulls.