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News: AEM DYNO-SHAFT ON-VEHICLE DYNO!
 
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Author Topic: AEM 1310 box controlling 2g Automatic transmission  (Read 1485 times)
THE_ONE
Where are the base cals?
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Posts: 12


« on: August 25, 2010, 10:58:09 AM »

Has anyone successfully done this yet, if so do you have a diagram on how to make this work? I need to know what 12v outputs on the Aem do I need to run the wiring from the solenoids to and be able to tune/adjust to work the way I want.

1)solenoid 1 and 2 ON = first gear
2)solenoid 1 off and 2 ON = second gear
3)both solenoids off = third
4)solenoid 1 on and 2 off = OD

Number 1 and 2 will have their own individual pins 12v positive.

The Aem will have to be tuned to fire a 12v sig to trigger both A+B solenoids simutaniously to get 1st gear, then turn solenoid A off leaving only solenoid B on to achieve 2nd gear and then both off to get 3rd gear. Then solenoid A on by itself get will activate OD. Now for the OD I wouldn't have the AEM controll that, I would tap into solenoid A wiring and hook it to an on dash switch so it's only on when I want it on.

I don't believe the AEM can run the pulses necessary for constant adjustment of the line pressure, so it would have to stay disconnected which will leave it at max.

Does anyone have any experience with this?
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Bender
Automapping? HA!
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Posts: 384


100 Shot Direct Port, S372, AWD, Auto. Enough said


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« Reply #1 on: August 25, 2010, 11:20:55 AM »

I worked with this before. I could get the AEM to drive the solenoids with my own interface box, but the gearing didn't work properly.

I spoke to an AEM tech, and the 1310 box doesn't have the proper hardware to control a transmission since it was designed for the manuals only. You will need to use a different box if you want it to control it.
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THE_ONE
Where are the base cals?
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Posts: 12


« Reply #2 on: August 25, 2010, 12:15:47 PM »

Bah humbug, what box do you have in mind and how much rewiring do I have to do to use it?
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Bender
Automapping? HA!
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Posts: 384


100 Shot Direct Port, S372, AWD, Auto. Enough said


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« Reply #3 on: August 25, 2010, 04:47:07 PM »

Just one that has transmission control, like the supra or universal box.

And you will need to rewire ALL the wires, since none of the plugs would be the same.




The easiest way to go about this is to have the AEM drive a dsm shiftbox via the shift light function. That, or get your Eprom TCU reflashed.
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THE_ONE
Where are the base cals?
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Posts: 12


« Reply #4 on: August 25, 2010, 05:57:32 PM »

I have a flashed Eprom Tcu but I can't seem to get it to work, I can't figure out why it is in limp mode. I wired everything up per the diagrams I have found and it is stuck in 2nd or 3rd.

I even went as far as tapping into the solenoid wiring and shifting the trans myself via 12v signals to clear my mind on the trans being bad.

I believe these are the only wires that matter as far as getting the tcu working, please correct me if I'm wrong


pin#3 - Oil temp warning light   - no dedicated spot to ecu, hooked to led light
pin#4 - communication to ecu ? - no pin to ecu provided
pin#9 - diagnostic output terminal - pin #6 to ecu
pin#12 - +12v Power - 12v switch source
pin#13 - GND - grounded to chassis
pin#17 - communication to ecu ? - no ecu pin provided
pin#18 - communication to ecu ? - no ecu pin prvided
pin#20 - closed throttle position switch - mfi pin #87 to ecu
pin#21 - TPS - pin #84 to ecu
pin#25 - back up power +12v - connect to 12v ign
pin#26 - back up GND - connected to chassis for gnd


I'm so lost, I'm going to try my tcu in a friends car to see if it is bad or not.
« Last Edit: August 25, 2010, 05:59:38 PM by THE_ONE » Logged
Bender
Automapping? HA!
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Posts: 384


100 Shot Direct Port, S372, AWD, Auto. Enough said


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« Reply #5 on: August 26, 2010, 09:17:19 AM »

You don't have your pulse generators connected, which are needed for the TCU to perform gear calculations. Without them, you will be stuck in limp mode, which is 3rd gear.

I am assuming you are swapping from a manual to an auto, and didn't buy the auto harness?
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THE_ONE
Where are the base cals?
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Posts: 12


« Reply #6 on: August 26, 2010, 10:31:56 AM »

You don't have your pulse generators connected, which are needed for the TCU to perform gear calculations. Without them, you will be stuck in limp mode, which is 3rd gear.

I am assuming you are swapping from a manual to an auto, and didn't buy the auto harness?
I used an auto harness, it runs from the trans to the tcu w/o intervention. The only thing I'm lost on is what wires go from the tcu to the ecu for it to operate. I went from manual to auto in my awd honda civic, so I couldn't use the complete auto harness as I would have to rewire the entire car again to integrate it. I just seperated the transmission harness from the engine harness and wired it into my existing engine harness. I can manually shift my car through manipulating the solenoids with +12v sources through the tcu plug.

I however did find out late lastnight that my tcu is dead, it died after being re-socketed and chipped. I tried it in another awd 2g and it through his car into limp mode as well and there was no codes or anything. It was like it wasn't even plugged up.

I'm hoping I just have a bad chip.


 
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Bender
Automapping? HA!
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Posts: 384


100 Shot Direct Port, S372, AWD, Auto. Enough said


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« Reply #7 on: August 27, 2010, 01:11:59 PM »

I have had that happen to me a couple times before. (Actually, 2 out of 3 times, and I paid $40 for each socket service).


Also, the TCU doesn't need to be wired to the ECU. The stock ECU pulls timing when the transmission shifts. The AEM doesn't do anything, and not having those wires connected WONT throw the TCU in limp mode. Just get a nonmolested known working TCU for the time being so you can get the car running right.
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THE_ONE
Where are the base cals?
*
Posts: 12


« Reply #8 on: August 31, 2010, 07:00:26 AM »

I have had that happen to me a couple times before. (Actually, 2 out of 3 times, and I paid $40 for each socket service).


Also, the TCU doesn't need to be wired to the ECU. The stock ECU pulls timing when the transmission shifts. The AEM doesn't do anything, and not having those wires connected WONT throw the TCU in limp mode. Just get a nonmolested known working TCU for the time being so you can get the car running right.
Awesome then that is what I'll do, thanks for your help!
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