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Author Topic: Fuel pump doesn't prime sometimes?  (Read 2375 times)
vortech-s2k
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Posts: 17
« on: June 26, 2011, 05:55:38 PM »
Normally when I turn the ignition on, I will hear the fuel pump prime, wait for it to finish and then start the car. However, I would say one out of ten times, when I turn the ignition on, the fuel pump doesn't prime. If this happens, I switch the ignition off and back on again and the pump will prime. The fuel pump has never not primed twice in a row.

I was wondering if anyone else has encountered this problem which would indicate a bug/problem with the AEM, or whether this is unique to my car and I have some other kind of electrical gremlin?

Thanks.
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j87w
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Posts: 12
« Reply #1 on: July 01, 2011, 02:49:25 PM »
Im fighting the same issue with 6601 box (s13 sr20det). Didnt start until I swapped from series one to the series two box. When I pull my a/c fuse I dont have any issues with it. If there is any relays that you have wired in with permanent power (not switched) to the box (i.e. battery power staight to relay coil and using the aem for the negative of the coil) you will have issues according to aem. 
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vortech-s2k
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Posts: 17
« Reply #2 on: July 03, 2011, 09:02:15 PM »
Thanks for the reply, I will pass this info on to my auto electrician and see if he can find the problem.
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army240
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Posts: 9
« Reply #3 on: September 10, 2011, 05:43:51 PM »
Quote from: j87w on July 01, 2011, 02:49:25 PM
Im fighting the same issue with 6601 box (s13 sr20det). Didnt start until I swapped from series one to the series two box. When I pull my a/c fuse I dont have any issues with it. If there is any relays that you have wired in with permanent power (not switched) to the box (i.e. battery power staight to relay coil and using the aem for the negative of the coil) you will have issues according to aem.  

I'm having the same problem here... and when the fuel don't prime, I can't connect with my laptop to the EMS...  So I guess I will permanently ground the relay and use switched 12v to feed the relay coil!  

To the OP, did you solve your problem?

Thank for the info,

Frank
« Last Edit: September 10, 2011, 05:45:23 PM by army240 » Logged
GTblue
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Posts: 11
« Reply #4 on: October 16, 2011, 04:26:43 AM »
I have the same problem on AEM Part# 30-6311. Sometimes I have to make 10 times the ignition on and off, befor the fuel pump running. No fuel pump, the engine will not start! The same applies to the connection to the PC!
Is there a solution? The description above I can not translate properly. If it's OK, it can someone spiked explanation in simple terms?

Greetings from Germany, GTblue
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vortech-s2k
Where are the base cals?
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Posts: 17
« Reply #5 on: December 11, 2011, 03:56:25 PM »
Quote from: army240 on September 10, 2011, 05:43:51 PM
I'm having the same problem here... and when the fuel don't prime, I can't connect with my laptop to the EMS...  So I guess I will permanently ground the relay and use switched 12v to feed the relay coil!  

To the OP, did you solve your problem?

Thank for the info,

Frank

No I have not fixed the problem as yet.  I tried to figure out with my car audio guy if I had any relays with permanent power but didn't get anywhere.
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Simon_Ru
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Posts: 18
« Reply #6 on: January 07, 2012, 04:03:41 PM »
Have the same problem on 30-6050 box with fully custom wiring. Ems powered directly from handy switch, so no relays there. When FP doesn't work, Tuner can't connect accordingly.
Annoying bug.
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nissmo127
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Posts: 13
« Reply #7 on: January 14, 2012, 09:30:36 AM »
I had the same problem after swapping from a series 1 to a series 2 6310 box.

I called Tech Dept who of course never heard of this problem wink after countless hours working to solve the problem with the tech department I ended up taking videos of trying to internal log with no connection and the no prime, no connect and sending it to tech.

They had me send in the box under warranty... After next day shipping to them(so I could drive my car ASAP) it sat for over a week without being touched  angry after daily phone calls and 2 weeks they said "We could not find anything wrong" But "We will change the board anyway and its a updated board"

When I finally got it back I plugged it in and like magic...wallah it worked and never stopped since

Here is one of the vids the grinding noise is a bad power door lock

<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Udphmbm48D4" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Udphmbm48D4</a>
« Last Edit: January 14, 2012, 09:46:02 PM by nissmo127 » Logged
nissmo127
Where are the base cals?
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Posts: 13
« Reply #8 on: January 14, 2012, 10:13:54 AM »
Quote from: j87w on July 01, 2011, 02:49:25 PM
Im fighting the same issue with 6601 box (s13 sr20det). Didnt start until I swapped from series one to the series two box. When I pull my a/c fuse I dont have any issues with it. If there is any relays that you have wired in with permanent power (not switched) to the box (i.e. battery power staight to relay coil and using the aem for the negative of the coil) you will have issues according to aem. 

After I got mine back I have since wired the fuel pump directly to the battery(constant) using a standard(SPDT)Bosch relay and the AEM to trigger it no problems yet

Are you talking about constant power input terminal 30(like main relay in a oem car) or constant power to one side of the coil(trigger) terminals 85 or 86.  I would not recommend wiring a relay like this as it may get stuck to the on position if it some how gets grounded unless its a car that has a master power kill switch that is used when not operating
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