2010 6.1 liter hemi basemap

[G35Hemi]

Can anyone please help me with a base map for this. I got one from someone that claims it for it but it not working.

[93turbo16]

The problem with the car currently is it will not stat sync when we are using the proper cam/crank pattern in AEM.

I have found that the 6.1L Hemi uses the 36+2+2 crank trigger pattern which is supposed to be the same as the newer Neon.

When using this configuration I can not get the stat sync to turn on, even after changing the mx sync test tooth and a few other things.

I have a few logs of the car during cranking that I can post to help anyone identify the problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Currently the motor is in a G35 and is running strictly off the AEM, just for reference.

[Modular Wiring Solutions]

have you tried taking it to a pro-tuner? I doubt anyone will have a base map for such an odd swap. Whoever supplied the wiring should supply a base map as well with all configurations set already.

[93turbo16]

have you tried taking it to a pro-tuner? I doubt anyone will have a base map for such an odd swap. Whoever supplied the wiring should supply a base map as well with all configurations set already.

Tuning is what I do day in/day out.. I just don't mess with many domestic motors so I am working with pretty limited information.

The trigger configuration is definitely the problem, I am just asking for assistance in determining the crank/cam trigger wheel setup so I can input it correctly. What I have been finding is that it "should" be the same as the neon, which doesn't work for this vehicle.

[NS]

We've run in to many "well it's supposed to be the same as..." instances when doing these custom one-off apps.  The best thing to do is use an oscilloscope to verify the cam and crank patterns.  Then from there you can either use an existing known-good pattern or we can assist you in properly setting up the tooth control table.

[93turbo16]

We've run in to many "well it's supposed to be the same as..." instances when doing these custom one-off apps.  The best thing to do is use an oscilloscope to verify the cam and crank patterns.  Then from there you can either use an existing known-good pattern or we can assist you in properly setting up the tooth control table.

I have a scope at the shop that I could bring out to the car.. the only problem is I live about 40 mins away from where the car is currently located so my access is limited right now. I am just trying to help the owner of the car get it up and running.

The cam and crank patterns should be stock configuration as it is a stock 6.1L motor. I do know that mopar sells an AEM box that is setup for this particular motor so whatever they are using would be a good place to start.

[Modular Wiring Solutions]

The neon has a 36-2+2 like most newer chrysler. I'm not sure on the number of cam teeth but I believe it's different.

[NS]

The Mopar crate motor stuff was developed a few years ago and things could have changed since then so it's still a good idea to use an oscilloscope to verify the pattern.  I did take a look at a couple of old development cals and the cam/crank pattern is similiar to the SRT-4 but definitely not the same.  The cals I have here at are not in a releasable format but I have a request in for the base cal that was used with the crate motors.  I'll post it up as soon as I get it.  

[NS]

See attached.

[Modular Wiring Solutions]

You are trying to read missing teeth when it will probably work better if you try reading the additional teeth. Ditch you calibration and Start with a stock SRT-4 calibration (1510), then just turn off the cam sensor edge so you only run off the crank. Set your fuel and spark teeth to 12. Enable the other 4 injectors and coils 3 & 4 and disable coil outputs 6 & 7.

Set your ignition phasing as follows:
(assuming you wired the coils in firing order like this:

Output 1 -> Coil 1
Output 2 -> Coil 8
Output 3 -> Coil 4
Output 4 -> Coil 3
Output 1b -> Coil 6
Output 2b -> Coil 5
Output 3b -> Coil 7
Output 4b -> Coil 2

Ign tooth 1 -> 0
Ign tooth 2 -> 3
Ign tooth 3 -> 6
Ign tooth 4 -> 9


With this you will have a calibration for semi-sequential fuel and wasted spark. Forget about the cam sensor for now. The car will start right up if your ignition sync is correct (provided you have a 36-2+2 wheel). Once you get the car idling, set the fuel teeth back to 24 and don't mess with the ignition teeth. Then you can play arround with the sync teeth number until it starts up in full sequential mode.

enjoy.

[93turbo16]

Thanks for the info.. I will see when I can make it up to the car to check out what is going on the the signals with the scope.

I will keep you guys posted with the results!

[Modular Wiring Solutions]

try it without the scope just on semi sequential, you'll know right away if you need to scope it or not